I've been trying to set up my home network so that I can access specific servers, computers, or devices on general so i can get data, files, or control the home automation while I'm away. I've tried many things, but it hasn't successful.

There's a lot of ways to get IoT devices connected through to the Internet. Usually they're connecting through a hub (via Zigbee or Z-wave), Bluetooth, or WiFi.  But connecting so many devices can start leading to issues.

IoT Security issues

There are a ton of manufacturers making smart products, but not every one of them are stringent about keeping your security top notch on every device, the proprietary apps they run on, and even the server handling your data. There's so many ways that your data can be lost, so it's smart to know what to do to mitigate the risks.

One way is to get a top notch password manager to store your logins. Shared passwords between sites is an easy way for hackers to get into your accounts and take over.

The other way is to separate out your WiFi network into different networks that don't interact. Some of the high end routers are able to do this, but the one I'm using is the Synology RT2600ac, which is like WiFi 5. The newest standard is WiFi 6 (ax), even going into WiFi 7, but it's so expensive and we're not at the bleeding edge of technology. But the nice thing about this router is that it uses the same interface as the Synology DiskStation Manager. The Wi-Fi networks I have set up are the main network, the guest network, and the IoT network.  It can create more networks, but that would be unnecessary work.

IoT Number Issues

The other issue with Wi-Fi IoT devices is that you can start to crowd the network.  I'm probably sending too much data for regular consumer routers. I've gotten 3 Netgear a nighthawk routers, and I've completely bricked them - can't even try to put an alternative operating system on it, they just won't respond. Maybe it's because I'm constantly sending data through the security cameras. But either way, the specs on the router says that they can usually handle up to 25 simultaneous devices. Between the laptops, phones, video game consoles, TVs, Google homes that we have, we can easily hit that number, and that's without the IoT smart devices.

Thankfully the Synology router can be expanded with another node for mesh networking. Each node is sale to process their own connected devices, and so hopefully splits the connected devices and reduces the workload. I can't say the same for other manufacturers or there, but I'm happy with the Wi-Fi so far.

So to conclude, when buying IoT devices, try to stay away from WiFi devices so your network can be nice and zippy. But if you have to, take precautions to protect yourself and not damage the quality of the network speed.

For a while now I've been trying to fully switch over from the SmartThings ecosystem over to Home Assistant.  Although Samsung is a great company and there was great support within the SmartThings community and developers when it was more open, there were a couple of things that I didn't like about the SmartThings ecosystem.  For one I didn't like that there was always a delay to process commands since they had to get sent to a cloud server to process, and then sent back to the hub to carry out the command. The other reason is that data and all the devices are not fully under my control.  And this is why I like the open source nature and self hosting that Home Assistant provides. 

I started moving over by installing Home Assistant on a Synology NAS with DiskStation Manager 7.1 with Docker.  (On a side note I'm hearing things that DSM 7.2 might not be so great with compatibility with docker.) However the Synology server doesn't seem to be compatible with the z wave stick that I have.  I've followed a lot of guides online on installing different drivers, but it just doesn't work like other Linux operating systems.

Then I've bought a Raspberry Pi 3 A, and that's just because it's almost impossible to source a Raspberry Pi B+ or 4 right now.  Installing on Home Assistant 2023.5.4 was giving too many memory issues, and 2023.6.1 wasn't much better.  At least I'm getting to run Home Assistant, but I'm still getting memory overload problems in the CLI.

I'll try a few more routes to get this going. I'm willing to turn an old Linux PC into a dedicated Home Assistant server, but it seems to be such a waste of an entire setup. I'll also try getting a new z wave USB stick. But I'm really hoping that those Raspberry Pi manufacturing issues resolve now that Sony is willing to help manufacturer some of the chips.

After lights, one of the easiest and cheapest items to automate the house without getting a full upgrade of curtains is to get one of Switchbot's Curtain Rod 2.  This curtain opener and closer that can open with your standard automation commands. Wake up in the morning to fresh sunlight without having to get up.  Close the curtain when it's raining or cloudy.  This little gadget will open those curtains (as long as it's on a rod-see product specifics for the rod type).  Getting a fully automated curtain can easily cost upwards of $500 (I've got one).  If you have 2 Curtain bots, you can program them to control both at once so that each curtain on the left and right open and close from the middle.

Setup

Overall the setup requires the Switchbot MiniHub or Hub 2.  Setup is simple to do.  Attaching the device onto the curtain is simple.  Hook it up so the light sensor is at the window, and lift the roller onto hanging hooks.  

App

Automated Control is through the app.  You can have it open or close completely, or only to a certain percentage open.  However if you tug on the curtain enough, the Switchbot curtain will detect that it's moving along and move to completely open and close the curtain.  All it needs is a bit of a tug and the device will do the rest of the work.

I've had this one a few types of curtains.  It does really well with shears (50% opacity?) since they're lightweight.  But it has some trouble with heavy curtains such as the full length 84" or 92" full blackout curtains. 

Battery Life

Battery life is around 2 months for the heavier weight curtains.  However, Switchbot also offers a solar panel to charge the switchbot so it is always topped off with a charge.  Switchbot Curtain is not the only product that works with window coverings - they also have the blind tilt that rotates blind rods.  

Wrap up

This is a simple and cheap way to give your home automation a bump.

SwitchBot Curtain 2 - Rod

Switch-bot.com $99.00 Amazon.com

Last Amazon price update was: October 30, 2025 4:38 am

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Abode is a DIY security system which can be self-monitored, or professionally monitored.  With self monitoring, the system has integration with Google, Alexa, and Homekit, but with as little as $6/month Abode can be integrated into other home automation systems such as Home Assistant.  The real value comes in when going to the Pro monitoring.  The closest competitor with similar features is Simplisafe, but ultimately I went with Abode for the integration and I haven't had any issues.

Finding Synology NAS

In the past way long ago, I was lured into the expensive black hole called photography.  I had one of the most popular DSLR cameras at the time (Nikon D90), and with it came RAW files that processing of large files on multiple computers brought about a new challenge.  Where to store all this data?  I could expand all the storage onto my desktop, but what if I wanted to work on the files on my laptop? Then I started looking into storage, and came upon the revelation of Network Attached Storages.

One of the systems that was recommended at that time was Drobo, which I still keep as a local drive, but has not aged well.  It was great! No need to learn the RAID systems, but still having data redundancy!  Little did I know that the model without the ethernet port would not have much support and love as the other systems. It was finicky - there were a couple of times that I moved the Drobo NAS from the table to the floor, and when I connected it back to the computer, there was a hard drive failure, or the system failed to recognize a hard drive.  I don't think it was the hard drives, because they were the Western Digital Red drives which were supposed to be for NAS systems. 

As time passed, I was introduced to media servers and newly exposed to the wonders of having a NAS that is able to process much more than just data storage.  Because I wanted to install Plex, there were a lot of recommendations to get the Synology NAS, specifically the DS218+ which could transcode all the anime that I want over the internet and cast it to any device I wanted.  

So the NAS had great features:
- Intel Celeron J3355 dual-core 2.0 GHz, burst up to 2.5 GHz
- 4K Transcoding
- 2 GB DDR3L, expandable up to 6 GB
- 3 usb 3.0 ports, 1 eSATA port

The Synology DS220+ is the current day equivalent.

What is the Nanoleaf Canvas?

The Nanoleaf Canvas is a modular smart RBG light panel that connects to make patterns as creative as your imagination.  If you have a bare wall that's in need of decorating and want something that is entertaining and functional, this is the piece to get.  This is definitely be eye catching, especially on a pillar that we have in our house where you don't expect anything interesting to be.  All my friends that see this always ask what this is and are mesmerized by the pattern, and the motion of the lights.  Take a look at the video above.